Not many watch brands carry the same prestige and respect as the Patek Philippe. Sitting alongside Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet in the ‘Holy Trinity’, Patek Philippe watches have the key ingredients that make it one of the greatest watch brands ever and while I may never be able to afford one I can still dream.
From groundbreaking sports watches to elegant dress models, the best Patek Philippe watches aren’t just timekeepers, but are enduring works of art, passed down for generations. Even though the brand’s storied history is peppered with numerous exquisite models, when you ask collectors, auctioneers, or watch aficionados to pick their favourite Patek Philippe model, you’re likely to get a variety of answers. Not their fault, though – Patek indeed has an eclectic portfolio!
To make the process easier, The Luxury Hut has compiled the best Patek Philippe watches ever made, while offering insight into what makes each one so special. Whether you acquire a new or pre-owned Patek Philippe, these models represent the highest standards of Swiss horology.
Nautilus
No brownie points for guessing this one. The ‘Nautilus’ is the most coveted Patek Philippe model, often considered a ‘supermodel’ among watch fanatics. Released 50 years ago, the Nautilus isn’t the model with the greatest complications or heritage, but it still bags the top spot. Designed by Gerald Genta, this stainless steel sports watch is highly desirable for its unique case shape, with a rounded octagonal bezel and a horizontally embossed dial, making it easy to spot across the room. A used Patek Philippe Nautilus is among the most sought-after pieces in the world, with discontinued references commanding strong demand and value.
Top Nautilus Models: Ref. 5711/1A, Ref. 5811/1G, Ref. 5712/1A
Aquanaut
Introduced in 1997, Nautilus’ younger sibling, Aquanaut, offers a modern, youthful take on the luxury sports watch, merging the spirit of adventure and exploration with Patek’s exquisite artistry to resonate with younger generations. Coming in a soft-edged octagonal porthole design, the Aquanaut was the first Patek Philippe model to sport the iconic ‘Tropical’ rubber strap, resistant to wear and UV light, and featured distinct embossed checkerboard ‘Grenade’ pattern dials. Its blend of modern, sporty aesthetics with premium horological luxury makes it so desirable.
Top Aquanaut Models: Ref. 5168G/010, Ref. 5167R/001, Ref. 5164A/001
Calatrava
In third place, we have the Calatrava for the more sophisticated folk. This quintessential Patek Philippe dress watch defined an entire category with its minimalist, Bauhaus-inspired design principles. Across the Calatrava collection, there have been many spectacular timepieces, but the ‘Hobnail’ bezel is a bit special. This form of guilloche design is instantly recognisable. The Calatrava watches remain a timeless symbol of understated luxury with clean lines and elegant dials, nestled in precious gold and platinum cases. Buyers choose this definitive, elegant dress watch for its superior value retention, often appreciating it over time.
Top Calatrava Models: Ref. 5524R/001, Ref. 6119G, Ref. 5116R
Cubitus
Some might be surprised to find the Cubitus on this list, but we all are aware of Patek’s ability to get it right in the long term. Launched in 2024 in a massive 45mm square case, the Patek Cubitus was released in a more palatable 40mm sizing in 2025. This new ‘casual chic’ release from Patek blends elements of the Nautilus and Cartier Santos to offer a ‘square-circle-octagon’ hybrid model with horizontally embossed dials, aimed at a modern, younger demographic. Despite initial scepticism, the Cubitus has achieved controversial commercial success in recent times, with reports of massive demand.
Top Cubitus Models: Ref. 5821/1A-001, Ref. 5822P/001, Ref. 5821/1AR-001
Complications
The Complications collection is a flawless testament to Patek Philippe’s technical prowess, offering working pieces of art. These exceptional timepieces incorporate a variety of advanced complications, including annual calendars, chronographs, world time displays, moon phases, dual time zones, and more. While the ‘Complications’ focuses on functional, daily-wear pieces, Patek’s ‘Grand Complications’ line includes higher-level features and often multiple complications in a single watch to make your eyes gleam with wonder. Offering functional, everyday utility, the Complications watches showcase the artistry and innovation that define Patek Philippe.
Top Complications Models: Ref. 5396 (Annual Calendar), Ref. 5330G (World Time), Ref. 5164 (Travel Time)
Grand Complications
The Patek Philippe Grand Complications represents the pinnacle of Swiss horology, featuring highly intricate handcrafted timepieces that often combine multiple (often 12 to 20), complex functions like minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, split-seconds chronograph, tourbillons and celestial charts in a single piece. Despite housing such remarkably complex mechanisms, Patek Philippe keeps the case diameter on the thinner side, showcasing top-tier technical ingenuity. Although it’s unknown exactly how many Grand Complications pieces get made every year, you could surely count them on one hand. This is what justifies that seven-figure price tag.
Top Grand Complications Models: Ref. 5236P, Ref. 5270G, Ref. 6300/403G
Golden Ellipse
Forget a rectangle or a circle; the Golden Ellipse is inspired by Greek mathematics and the ‘golden ratio’ of 1/1.6181, which gives it its unconventional shape. Released in 1968, the Golden Ellipse was a bold design at the time but eventually became an icon. The elliptical-shaped case and dial punctuated by gold hands and fine indexes make it the ultimate expression of refined, non-flashy taste. Often called the perfect subtle flex watch, the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, with its blend of simplicity and very recognisable design, doesn’t need an introduction.
Top Golden Ellipse Models: Ref. 5738/001, Ref. 3848/1, Ref. 3605
Why Choose Pre-Owned Patek Philippe Watches?
Choosing pre-owned Patek Philippe watches gives collectors and buyers immediate access to a broader selection of models, including iconic, in-demand, and discontinued models, without years of long waiting lists, and at a better value than brand-new.
Beyond availability, the used Patek Philippe timepieces make ‘safe’ investments, renowned for retaining and even appreciating in value over time, due to their exceptional craftsmanship, historical significance and rarity.
In The End..
As we conclude, it’s clear why Patek Philippe watches are so highly regarded in the industry. From the legendary Nautilus to the classic Calatrava, the best Patek Philippe models aren’t just accessories but conversation starters, investments, or cherished companions that transcend both trends and time.
When considering purchasing a Patek Philippe, it’s important to think about the model, how you plan to use it, your long-term goals for the watch and also whether a new or used Patek Philippe suits your needs.
But whatever guides your decision, one thing remains unchanged: the happiness and pride a Patek Philippe brings remains unrivaled.
